Fabrics compared

Fabric decides how a saree feels, how warm it is, and how hard it is to put on — far more than price does.

Our own comparison, based on the pieces we stock. Sample catalogue
Fabric Feels like To wear Draping In stock
Art silk A lustrous woven fabric with the look of silk. For this supplier catalogue the classification is visual until fibre content is confirmed. Usually light, affordable and suitable for colourful festive dressing. Moderate
Visual assessment — exact composition to be confirmed.
477
Silk Lustrous and smooth with a natural sheen. Holds a sharp pleat and has weight, so it stays where you put it. Warmest of our fabrics. Best for cooler months and evening events. Moderate
Structured — pleats behave, but the weight takes getting used to.
108
Cotton Matte, breathable and light. The easiest fabric to learn to drape because it grips itself instead of sliding. Comfortable all day and in warm rooms. Creases, which is part of the look. —
Easiest to drape.
0
Chiffon Very light and semi-sheer with a fluid, liquid fall. Slips easily, so it needs pins and a petticoat. Cool to wear and packs small. Always needs a petticoat underneath. —
Slippery — use plenty of pins until you are practised.
0
Georgette A crinkled crepe weave. Light like chiffon but with more grip and a slight texture, so it is far more forgiving. Resists creasing, which makes it good for travel and long days. —
Forgiving — the best light fabric for a beginner.
0
Organza Crisp, sheer and papery. Holds its own shape, so pleats stand away from the body sculpturally. Structured and eye-catching, but it creases and snags more than other fabrics. —
Stiff — pleats are easy to form but bulky at the waist.
0
Linen Textured, matte and cool with a dry handle. Softens every time you wash it. Very breathable. Creases readily and is meant to. —
Easy to drape, slightly stiff at first.
0
Net An open mesh, usually embellished. Sheer by nature, so it is worn over a lining or with a full petticoat. Light but can scratch. Best with a soft lining. —
Moderate — light but the embellishment adds bulk.
0
Silk blend Silk mixed with another fibre to cut the weight and the price while keeping much of the sheen. Lighter than pure silk and usually easier to look after. Moderate
Moderate.
696
Silk–cotton A silk-look woven fabric with a drier, lighter handle associated with silk–cotton. For this supplier catalogue the classification is visual until fibre content is confirmed. Balances the sheen and structure of silk with a lighter, more breathable drape. Moderate
Visual assessment — exact composition to be confirmed.
172

Choosing by what matters to you

If you have never draped one

Cotton or georgette. Both grip themselves instead of sliding. Handloom cotton is the most forgiving fabric there is, and it goes in the washing machine. Georgette gives you the light, fluid look people usually want, with a crinkled surface that stops it slipping the way chiffon does.

If the room will be hot

Kota Doria, Chanderi or plain cotton. All under 300g, all open enough to breathe. Avoid pure silk and anything with dense embroidery — the weight is the problem, not the fibre.

If you want it to photograph well

Silk or satin for shine, organza for shape, sequins for low light. Matte fabrics like Mysore crepe and linen look wonderful in person and quieter in photographs. Sequin and zari work reads best under flash and in the evening.

If you want it to last decades

Handloom silk or handloom cotton. Both improve with age when stored properly. Polyester georgette and chiffon are practical and travel well, but they will not become heirlooms, and we would rather say so than imply otherwise.

If you are worried about creasing

Georgette resists it best. Linen and cotton crease readily and are meant to. Organza creases permanently, which is why we tell you to store it rolled rather than folded.

Next: weaves and regional styles