Weaves and regional styles

What actually makes a Kanjivaram a Kanjivaram, and how to check for yourself rather than taking anyone’s word for it.

How we word provenance claims

A weave name is a factual claim about how something was made, so we grade our confidence rather than assert it. Every product page says which of these applies:

  • Handloom, supplier declared — the supplier states it in writing and names the cluster. We hold the declaration; we have not audited the loom.
  • Mill described, not verified — a mill described the weave to us and we could not confirm it.
  • Inspired by the tradition — the design references a tradition but is not made in it. Usually a print.
  • Powerloom woven — machine woven, even and lower cost.

Kanjivaram

Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu

A heavy silk where the body and the border are woven separately and then joined, which is why the border colour can be completely different.

How to spot it: Look for the join line where border meets body.

None in stock at the moment.

Banarasi

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Silk with dense raised brocade patterning, traditionally using metallic zari thread in Mughal-influenced floral motifs.

How to spot it: Patterning sits proud of the surface and the reverse shows floats of thread.

None in stock at the moment.

Chanderi

Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh

A fine silk-cotton mix that is sheer and glossy but almost weightless, usually with small woven motifs scattered across it.

How to spot it: Transparent when held up, with a faint glassy sheen.

None in stock at the moment.

Jamdani

Bengal

Motifs are added by hand on the loom as the cloth is woven, one supplementary thread at a time, so the pattern appears to float in the fabric.

How to spot it: Motifs look the same on both sides with no long threads behind.

None in stock at the moment.

Ikat

Pochampally, Telangana

The threads are tied and dyed before weaving, so the pattern has a soft blurred edge that no print can imitate.

How to spot it: Feathered, slightly out-of-focus edges to every shape.

None in stock at the moment.

Patola

Patan, Gujarat

A double ikat where both the warp and the weft threads are tie-dyed, so the design reads identically on both faces.

How to spot it: Reversible geometric patterning with no wrong side.

None in stock at the moment.

Paithani

Paithan, Maharashtra

Silk with a tapestry-woven pallu, often a peacock or lotus, and a distinctive oblique interlocked border.

How to spot it: The pallu design is woven in, not printed or embroidered.

None in stock at the moment.

Maheshwari

Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh

A light silk-cotton with a reversible striped or checked border, originally designed to be worn either way round.

How to spot it: Border works on both faces.

None in stock at the moment.

Kota Doria

Kota, Rajasthan

An open square-checked weave (the checks are called khat) that is exceptionally light and airy.

How to spot it: A fine visible grid you can see daylight through.

None in stock at the moment.

Bandhani

Kutch, Gujarat

Thousands of tiny points are tied off with thread before dyeing, leaving a field of small dots.

How to spot it: Dots are slightly irregular, and the fabric holds a puckered memory of the ties.

None in stock at the moment.

Hand block print

Rajasthan

Carved wooden blocks are inked and stamped across the cloth by hand, one colour and one block at a time.

How to spot it: Small overlaps and gaps where blocks meet — the signature of a hand, not a machine.

None in stock at the moment.

Sambalpuri

Sambalpur, Odisha

An Odisha ikat tradition using tie-dyed threads, typically with shankha, chakra and flower motifs.

How to spot it: Blurred-edge motifs in a strong, high-contrast palette.

None in stock at the moment.

Tussar silk

Jharkhand and Bihar

A wild silk with a deeper gold tone and a coarser, drier texture than cultivated mulberry silk.

How to spot it: Visible slubs — small thicker sections in the thread.

None in stock at the moment.

Mysore crepe

Karnataka

Heavily twisted silk threads give a fine pebbled surface, a matte sheen and a very fluid fall.

How to spot it: A soft sandy texture rather than a shine.

None in stock at the moment.